SNOWDONIA MOUNTAIN RESCUE (GLYDERAU)
A TRIBUTE TO OVMRO, SARDA AND THE RAF
On 25th February 2013 two hikers set off enthusiastically in
bright sunshine from the car park at the western end of Llyn Ogwen, energised
by the prospect of another day bagging some familiar peaks in Snowdonia.
The previous day had been spent
on an arduous ascent and descent of Cadair Idris and Mynedd Moel with patches
of ice and snow impeding some of the route but providing perfect preparation
for the even more challenging terrain of the Glyderau. Weather reports were encouraging with no snow
or precipitation forecast, minimal wind effects and the prospects of cloud free
summits ranking at an encouraging 60-80%.
Based on the previous day’s outing, specific localised mountain weather
reports and with no risk of avalanche or significant ice hazards en route, it
was intended to ascend Y Garn via the north-east ridge, initially passing the
shores of the picturesque Llyn Idwal and then following the very steep ridge
round the hanging Cwm Clyd. After
summiting Y Garn, the proposed route descends gently towards the top of the
infamous Devil’s Kitchen and precipitous Idwal Slabs, to pass Llyn y Cwm before
embarking on the challenging scree slopes on the ascent to Glyder Fawr. Navigating the summit ridge eastwards to
Glyder Fach, the route passes the Castell y Gwynt rock formation and the
Cantilever Stone to begin a north-west descent to Llyn Bochlwyd and finally
rejoins the path entering the beautiful Cwm Idwal nature reserve, the first
official nature reserve in Wales and rightfully deserving of its SSSI status
with its geological and botanical features attracting many enquiring minds and
intrepid explorers including Charles Darwin.
A wonderful skyline traverse,
this route negotiates truly mountainous territory and the forces of nature
should never be underestimated. Whilst such a route should never be diminished to
anything less than challenging, a day of stunning mountain views, razor sharp
edges and gnarly ridges, lonely mountain lakes, exhilarating climbs and
energetic legwork was eagerly awaited…..
In extra warm winter attire and
with rucksacks carefully packed with plenty of food and drink, extra clothing,
winter survival kit, route maps and navigation aids and an array of mobiles on
several different networks, an initial pause was made to send the usual text
message to a friend to advise departure time, brief details of intended route
and estimated time of return back to the car.
As mobile signal was poor, commencement was only initiated once the
message had been confirmed as received.
Cwm Idwal beckoned, the partially
frozen depths of the Llyn with its imposing backdrop always a photographic
delight and further heightened by the sweeping panoramic vistas of the Ogwen
Valley, the Ogwen Arêtes and the opposing Carnedd ranges. It was hard to resist the urge to constantly
stop and take photographs of the views, magnificent ice features surrounding
the frozen cwms and mountain streams and even the occasional low flying RAF jet
on a training exercise.
Progress was slow up the majestic
north-east ridge of Y-Garn with the very steep path obscured in places by ice
and fresh snow. The cloud base was
variable but generally a light wind was sweeping the valleys so visibility was
predominantly good with only occasional times when the route or peaks were
obscured during the first summit approach.
Leaving the modest cairn on the summit after a celebratory snack, the
easier terrain around the top of the crags ringing Cwm Clyd shrouded in fresh
snow afforded some respite for the legs and a magnificent view of a very frozen
Llyn y Cwm. This area is usually very
soft and wet underfoot so the crisp tundra-like conditions made the going
easier.
The tough ascent from Llyn y Cwn
posed the first real challenge of the day.
Always tough to negotiate at any time of the year, the slope of frozen
scree on the steep ascent towards Glyder Fawr provided some good scrambling but
valuable time was being eroded from the buffer – the route planned should have
taken approximately 4 hours in good weather conditions so an additional 2 hours
had been allowed on account of the wintry conditions. However, crossing a large area of ice on the
southerly slopes above the scree and then being slowed by deep snow through the
moonscape terrain of the Glyder ridge further hampered progress. En route to the third summit of the day,
Glyder Fach, the cloud base dropped significantly and soon after light snow
fall was replaced by blizzardous ice pellets, swirling winds and white-out
conditions. Navigation was difficult and,
mindful that disorientation in such conditions is common, the importance of
constant route checking against maps and planned headings, GPS waypoints, spot
heights and cairns etc. was essential. Progress
became painfully slow and eventually, due to an increasing awareness that
daylight hours were being severely eroded, a decision was made
to turn around and retrace steps back to familiar territory and descend via the
Devils Kitchen. Unfortunately, in the
short time since leaving the slopes of Glyder Fawr, further snow fall had made
the conditions underfoot treacherous and virtually impassable – this was now
terrain which should only have been safely tackled with crampons. An ice axe to dig out holds and arrest falls
would also have been an invaluable asset.
However, to remain on the Glyder slopes in increasingly perilous
conditions would have been foolhardy so it was important to attempt to descend
as far as possible taking as much care as possible. A beautiful pink moon glowed over Llanberis
as dusk began to fall on returning to the base of the scree at Llyn y Cwn and
spirits lifted as the top of Devils Kitchen yawned into view.
Elation was short lived as a
series of emotions followed – relief on returning to the familiar col of Devils
Kitchen was rapidly replaced by frustration at trying to distinguish the one
safe route down as opposed to the vertical drops down the Idwal slabs and the
realisation that this descent was blocked by an ice flow of treacherous
proportions in failing light. Despair
loomed – years of mountain climbing had instilled the belief that you should be
clear of a mountain at least an hour before dusk and to spend a night in such
exposed conditions would be suicidal.
However, given the prevailing conditions and with no mobile phone signal
to summon advice or assistance, the only safe option now was to hunker down for
the night, wait it out until dawn then continue with an descent at first light.
For years you carry a multitude of survival kit, always hoping and believing you will never need to use anything more than a Compeed and even at times being tempted to leave something back at base to reduce pack weight. Never compromise on safety – even a survival bag costing less than £5, albeit somewhat cumbersome, can save your life! Indeed, once the realisation had set in that it would be necessary to implement an emergency contingency plan, a decision was made to overnight in a 2-man Bothy.
I
t had now
gone 7pm and finding a suitable site was difficult due to the enveloping darkness,
icy rocks, uneven snow-covered ground and swirling winds from all directions, but
eventually a small lee by some rocks was selected albeit on sloping
ground. Space was tight with only just
enough room for two persons in the bothy so essential supplies (food, drinks,
thermos, lights, flashing red beacon, mobile phones etc.) were decanted from
the rucksacks which were then deployed as windbreaks outside the bothy. A survival bag was also unpacked and used as
an additional defence against the cold and snow. Then began the long wait…..
Isolation and exposure in
sub-zero temperatures sparked concerns for survival. Staying warm and dry and maintaining energy
levels became the focus to stave off any risks of hypothermia – hot coffee was
rationed at 2-hour intervals, high energy snacks shared, alarms set to prevent
drifting off into deep sleeps and spirits lifted by telling stories and trying
to keep a positive outlook overnight. It
was now down to God to provide a miracle – would the friend acting as an
emergency contact alert Mountain Rescue, would the weather revert to forecast
and not worsen, could a helicopter land nearby if the clouds cleared and the
prevailing winds allowed…..
Sounds of a helicopter’s blades
were heard down the valley around midnight but did not get close enough to
spark any real aspiration of rescue. As
they faded away into the distance so too did the hope that the ordeal would be
curtailed before dawn – it looked like being a long freezing night which would
be a true test of endurance and resourcefulness followed by a tiring descent
with cold muscle fatigue.
Then, sometime between 1am and
2am, an unfamiliar but welcome sound rendered its way up the valley – on
hearing the muffled sounds of a claxon-like horn, a quick response was made
vocally and with mountain whistles. More
assertive helicopter sounds could also be heard once again circumnavigating the
Glyder range, overflying the rocky crags with its lights occasionally coming
into view through the small clear panel which served as a window in the
bothy. The red flashing light outside
the bothy was still working and in addition distress signals were also being relayed
using white torch lights and mobile phone backlights in different
directions. Adrenaline surged as fresh
hope forged its way into the conscious mind.
The “worried friend” who acted as
the emergency contact had fulfilled her role brilliantly – not having received
news of a safe return from the day’s hike but not wanting to alert Emergency
Services unnecessarily she had cautiously waited until 8pm before making the
call. Calmly she had relayed details of
the route, timings, assessment of kit carried and general skills, location of
the car park and other vital information which enabled the mountain rescue
teams to assess the situation and place teams on standby.
At approximately midnight, Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue (OVMRO) had deployed 4 teams on foot on varying approaches to the Glyder summit ridge – via Cwm Tryfan, Cwm Bochlwyd and Cwm Idwal as well as up the Miners Path from Pen y Gwryd Hotel. Sally and Anne together with Spin, a member of the Search And Rescue Dog Association (SARDA), were first to arrive on scene (about 1.30am) and calmly and efficiently began to co-ordinate communications between the other teams and the circling 22 Squadron Sea King helicopter which had been deployed out of RAF Valley to assist. Never before has the sound of other human voices felt so welcoming and comforting or the prospect of warming up a rescue dog in a cramped mountain bothy so endearing!
Time then seemed to speed up as news
was received that the Sea King was going to attempt an approach despite the
banks of low cloud and windy conditions with the intention of providing an air
lift to safety. Cloud continued to
scupper first attempts at an approach but eventually the skilled crew brought
the helicopter to a steady hover just west of Llyn y Cwn (appropriately named
Lake of the Dog) and just metres away from the temporary bivouac site. After being quickly winched aboard, strapped
in and shrouded in foil blankets, the helicopter banked away to make a sortie
to Oggie Base, the home of OVMRO at Bryn Poeth in Capel Curig, where a warm
welcome and debrief was provided by other members of the team. A cauldron of hot soup, a stack of toast and
large cups of coffee provided much appreciated warmth and sustenance as the
mountain rescue teams returned off the mountains to rendezvous back at base.
As you have probably now guessed, it was me who was
one of the mountain hikers on that fateful day accompanied by Graham Palmer, my
intrepid friend who deserves the highest praise for his patience when I slowed
down and lost valuable time, his continual encouragement when the going got
tough, his sacrificial love and care in an extreme mountain environment, his
ability to dispel fears that we might not survive the night and his assertive
decision-making and leadership at the point when it became inevitable that we
were going to have to hunker down in such adverse conditions.
I hope that by telling our story, we
can share some of the things we learned along the way and in so doing enhance
the enjoyment and safety of other hill walkers whilst also giving recognition
to the important emergency rescue teams whose passion for the mountains is
evidenced by their professionalism and commitment to the service they provide
for those of us unfortunate enough to find ourselves in need – to you we will
always be indebted.
Our most grateful thanks go to everyone involved in
our safe return down the mountain and we sincerely apologise if our actions inadvertently put anyone at risk that night.
There were many people involved and everyone played an invaluable
part in safeguarding our health and well-being and allowing us an opportunity
to tell our tale. We wish we could thank
you all by name but sadly we were not able to catch them all during the course
of events!
Special thanks go to the following:
OVMRO – Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Organisation
SARDA –
Search And Rescue Dogs Association
22 SQUADRON, RAF VALLEY, ANGLESEY – Flight Lt Wales (HRH Prince William), co-pilot
Kate, Chaz and a 4th crew member (apologies for not catching your
name)
NORTH WALES POLICE
Sally, Anne and Spin (OVMRO / SARDA) - for finding us and co-ordinating our safe exit
The other SAR teams deployed on the Glyderau
Pauline (OVMRO) - for supporting us back at Oggie Base and liaising with the police, mountain
rescue teams and our emergency contact
Bob
(OVMRO)
– for providing a warm welcome at Oggie Base and giving us a lift back to our
car after our eventful night
And finally…….
Our “worried friend” who prefers to remain nameless but deserves an
accolade for raising the alarm – thank you again from the bottom of our hearts
LESSONS LEARNED:
EMERGENCY CONTACT
What we did – appraised an emergency contact of a departure time,
location, brief details of route and expected time of return
What we could have done better – provided a more detailed itinerary/schedule
and clear instructions as to what to do in an emergency together with details
of clothing worn and kit carried (helpful for mountain rescue teams to assess
survivability, skill levels and aid identification etc.)
WINTER KIT
What we did – sufficient clothing and footwear worn and additional
clothing carried to survive the climate (including waterproofs, spare gloves
and hats); carried an emergency bothy and survival bags, emergency lights, full
first aid kit and all other relevant equipment for general mountain walking and
surviving an emergency night out in the hills; a full change of clothing and
footwear was also left in our car to be used as necessary on our return
What we could have done better – crampons and ice axes would have
significantly reduced the delays in negotiating the icy slopes, provided much
safer and securer footholds and minimised the risk of potentially serious falls;
the ensuing weather conditions were not forecast and the extent of snow and ice
on the summit ridge had not shown on mountain reports but full winter equipment
would have been advisable at this time of year “just in case”
OVERNIGHTING
What we did – after finding the best sheltered site we immediately
deployed the bothy and one of us used a survival bag; due to lack of space in
the 2-man bothy the rucksacks were then positioned strategically outside to act
as support and windbreaks after selecting necessary food, drinks and equipment
to sustain us through the night
What we could have done better – a larger bothy would have allowed
us to keep the rucksacks inside the shelter allowing us access to kit at all
times and providing a slightly less cramped space; the use of 2 survival bags
(i.e. one each) at the outset would have provided further insulation from the
cold and protection from the damp created by the condensation inside the bothy
NAVIGATION & COMMUNICATION AIDS
What we did – carried an Expedition compass, Garmin GPS and 5
mobile phones on 3 networks, a laminated route map with additional laminated OS
extracts, spare maps, hand held torches, a distress light and mountain whistles;
continually reviewed our route and plan as the day/night progressed always
ensuring we still had a contingency plan
What we could have done better – may consider investing in a
satellite mobile phone or a PLB (Personal Locating Beacon), an emergency
transmitting device which uses a frequency monitored for distress signals and enables
a location to be precisely pinpointed in areas of poor/no mobile signal; full
OS mapping on the Garmin GPS would have been extremely advantageous for
increased reassurance and accuracy in route finding across the Glyder ridge in
the atrocious weather conditions; we will also carry additional laminated map
sections in a map case with copies in each rucksack in case of maps being lost,
damaged or blown away in high winds; an earlier start time would have afforded
additional daylight hours and directional LED head torches would have been
preferable as the light started to fail towards the end of the day to
illuminate the route
FOOD & DRINKS
What we did – carried a variety of isotonic drinks and high carb
meals and snacks including a flask of hot coffee, jelly babies, Mars bars and chocolate
raisins (excellent for rationing purposes), ensuring some were easily
accessible on the outside of our packs; additional food and hot/cold drinks
were also left in the car for our return (NB – we did not use camelbaks
or similar as these would have been susceptible to freezing, thus rendering the
contents undrinkable)
What we could have done better – an additional flask would have
enabled more generous rationing of hot liquids overnight
Mountain environments are unpredictable so careful planning and
preparation is essential – it is impossible to be overprepared!
“It’s always further than it looks.
It’s always taller than it looks.
And it’s always harder than it looks.”
The 3 rules of mountaineering
“It is not the
mountain we conquer but ourselves.”
Edmund Hillary
“Getting to the
top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.”
Ed Viesturs (No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing
the World's 14 Highest Peaks)
“Take only pictures; leave only
footprints.”
Anonymous
Mountains are not stadiums
where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I
practice my religion...I go to them as humans go to worship. From their lofty
summits I view my past, dream of the future and, with an unusual acuity, am
allowed to experience the present moment...my vision cleared, my strength
renewed. In the mountains I celebrate creation.
On each journey I am reborn.”
Anatoli Boukreev
