SNOWDONIA MOUNTAIN RESCUE (GLYDERAU)

SNOWDONIA MOUNTAIN RESCUE (GLYDERAU)

A TRIBUTE TO OVMRO, SARDA AND THE RAF

On 25^th February 2013 two hikers set off enthusiastically in bright sunshine from the car park at the western end of Llyn Ogwen, energised by the prospect of another day bagging some familiar peaks in Snowdonia. 

 

The previous day had been spent on an arduous ascent and descent of Cadair Idris and Mynedd Moel with patches of ice and snow impeding some of the route but providing perfect preparation for the even more challenging terrain of the Glyderau.  Weather reports were encouraging with no snow or precipitation forecast, minimal wind effects and the prospects of cloud free summits ranking at an encouraging 60-80%.  Based on the previous day’s outing, specific localised mountain weather reports and with no risk of avalanche or significant ice hazards en route, it was intended to ascend Y Garn via the north-east ridge, initially passing the shores of the picturesque Llyn Idwal and then following the very steep ridge round the hanging Cwm Clyd.  After summiting Y Garn, the proposed route descends gently towards the top of the infamous Devil’s Kitchen and precipitous Idwal Slabs, to pass Llyn y Cwm before embarking on the challenging scree slopes on the ascent to Glyder Fawr.  Navigating the summit ridge eastwards to Glyder Fach, the route passes the Castell y Gwynt rock formation and the Cantilever Stone to begin a north-west descent to Llyn Bochlwyd and finally rejoins the path entering the beautiful Cwm Idwal nature reserve, the first official nature reserve in Wales and rightfully deserving of its SSSI status with its geological and botanical features attracting many enquiring minds and intrepid explorers including Charles Darwin.   A wonderful skyline traverse, this route negotiates truly mountainous territory and the forces of nature should never be underestimated. Whilst such a route should never be diminished to anything less than challenging, a day of stunning mountain views, razor sharp edges and gnarly ridges, lonely mountain lakes, exhilarating climbs and energetic legwork was eagerly awaited…..

In extra warm winter attire and with rucksacks carefully packed with plenty of food and drink, extra clothing, winter survival kit, route maps and navigation aids and an array of mobiles on several different networks, an initial pause was made to send the usual text message to a friend to advise departure time, brief details of intended route and estimated time of return back to the car.  As mobile signal was poor, commencement was only initiated once the message had been confirmed as received.

 

Cwm Idwal beckoned, the partially frozen depths of the Llyn with its imposing backdrop always a photographic delight and further heightened by the sweeping panoramic vistas of the Ogwen Valley, the Ogwen Arêtes and the opposing Carnedd ranges.  It was hard to resist the urge to constantly stop and take photographs of the views, magnificent ice features surrounding the frozen cwms and mountain streams and even the occasional low flying RAF jet on a training exercise.  

Progress was slow up the majestic north-east ridge of Y-Garn with the very steep path obscured in places by ice and fresh snow.  The cloud base was variable but generally a light wind was sweeping the valleys so visibility was predominantly good with only occasional times when the route or peaks were obscured during the first summit approach.  Leaving the modest cairn on the summit after a celebratory snack, the easier terrain around the top of the crags ringing Cwm Clyd shrouded in fresh snow afforded some respite for the legs and a magnificent view of a very frozen Llyn y Cwm.  This area is usually very soft and wet underfoot so the crisp tundra-like conditions made the going easier.

 

The tough ascent from Llyn y Cwn posed the first real challenge of the day.  Always tough to negotiate at any time of the year, the slope of frozen scree on the steep ascent towards Glyder Fawr provided some good scrambling but valuable time was being eroded from the buffer – the route planned should have taken approximately 4 hours in good weather conditions so an additional 2 hours had been allowed on account of the wintry conditions.  However, crossing a large area of ice on the southerly slopes above the scree and then being slowed by deep snow through the moonscape terrain of the Glyder ridge further hampered progress.  En route to the third summit of the day, Glyder Fach, the cloud base dropped significantly and soon after light snow fall was replaced by blizzardous ice pellets, swirling winds and white-out conditions.  Navigation was difficult and, mindful that disorientation in such conditions is common, the importance of constant route checking against maps and planned headings, GPS waypoints, spot heights and cairns etc. was essential.  Progress became painfully slow and eventually, due to an increasing awareness that daylight hours were being severely eroded, a decision was made to turn around and retrace steps back to familiar territory and descend via the Devils Kitchen.  Unfortunately, in the short time since leaving the slopes of Glyder Fawr, further snow fall had made the conditions underfoot treacherous and virtually impassable – this was now terrain which should only have been safely tackled with crampons.  An ice axe to dig out holds and arrest falls would also have been an invaluable asset.  However, to remain on the Glyder slopes in increasingly perilous conditions would have been foolhardy so it was important to attempt to descend as far as possible taking as much care as possible.  A beautiful pink moon glowed over Llanberis as dusk began to fall on returning to the base of the scree at Llyn y Cwn and spirits lifted as the top of Devils Kitchen yawned into view.

Elation was short lived as a series of emotions followed – relief on returning to the familiar col of Devils Kitchen was rapidly replaced by frustration at trying to distinguish the one safe route down as opposed to the vertical drops down the Idwal slabs and the realisation that this descent was blocked by an ice flow of treacherous proportions in failing light.  Despair loomed – years of mountain climbing had instilled the belief that you should be clear of a mountain at least an hour before dusk and to spend a night in such exposed conditions would be suicidal.  However, given the prevailing conditions and with no mobile phone signal to summon advice or assistance, the only safe option now was to hunker down for the night, wait it out until dawn then continue with an descent at first light.

For years you carry a multitude of survival kit, always hoping and believing you will never need to use anything more than a Compeed and even at times being tempted to leave something back at base to reduce pack weight. Never compromise on safety – even a survival bag costing less than £5, albeit somewhat cumbersome, can save your life! Indeed, once the realisation had set in that it would be necessary to implement an emergency contingency plan, a decision was made to overnight in a 2-man Bothy. 

It had now gone 7pm and finding a suitable site was difficult due to the enveloping darkness, icy rocks, uneven snow-covered ground and swirling winds from all directions, but eventually a small lee by some rocks was selected albeit on sloping ground.  Space was tight with only just enough room for two persons in the bothy so essential supplies (food, drinks, thermos, lights, flashing red beacon, mobile phones etc.) were decanted from the rucksacks which were then deployed as windbreaks outside the bothy.  A survival bag was also unpacked and used as an additional defence against the cold and snow.  Then began the long wait…..

Isolation and exposure in sub-zero temperatures sparked concerns for survival.  Staying warm and dry and maintaining energy levels became the focus to stave off any risks of hypothermia – hot coffee was rationed at 2-hour intervals, high energy snacks shared, alarms set to prevent drifting off into deep sleeps and spirits lifted by telling stories and trying to keep a positive outlook overnight.  It was now down to God to provide a miracle – would the friend acting as an emergency contact alert Mountain Rescue, would the weather revert to forecast and not worsen, could a helicopter land nearby if the clouds cleared and the prevailing winds allowed…..

Sounds of a helicopter’s blades were heard down the valley around midnight but did not get close enough to spark any real aspiration of rescue.  As they faded away into the distance so too did the hope that the ordeal would be curtailed before dawn – it looked like being a long freezing night which would be a true test of endurance and resourcefulness followed by a tiring descent with cold muscle fatigue.

Then, sometime between 1am and 2am, an unfamiliar but welcome sound rendered its way up the valley – on hearing the muffled sounds of a claxon-like horn, a quick response was made vocally and with mountain whistles.  More assertive helicopter sounds could also be heard once again circumnavigating the Glyder range, overflying the rocky crags with its lights occasionally coming into view through the small clear panel which served as a window in the bothy.  The red flashing light outside the bothy was still working and in addition distress signals were also being relayed using white torch lights and mobile phone backlights in different directions.  Adrenaline surged as fresh hope forged its way into the conscious mind.

The “worried friend” who acted as the emergency contact had fulfilled her role brilliantly – not having received news of a safe return from the day’s hike but not wanting to alert Emergency Services unnecessarily she had cautiously waited until 8pm before making the call.  Calmly she had relayed details of the route, timings, assessment of kit carried and general skills, location of the car park and other vital information which enabled the mountain rescue teams to assess the situation and place teams on standby.

 

At approximately midnight, Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue (OVMRO) had deployed 4 teams on foot on varying approaches to the Glyder summit ridge – via Cwm Tryfan, Cwm Bochlwyd and Cwm Idwal as well as up the Miners Path from Pen y Gwryd Hotel. Sally and Anne together with Spin, a member of the Search And Rescue Dog Association (SARDA), were first to arrive on scene (about 1.30am) and calmly and efficiently began to co-ordinate communications between the other teams and the circling 22 Squadron Sea King helicopter which had been deployed out of RAF Valley to assist. Never before has the sound of other human voices felt so welcoming and comforting or the prospect of warming up a rescue dog in a cramped mountain bothy so endearing!

Time then seemed to speed up as news was received that the Sea King was going to attempt an approach despite the banks of low cloud and windy conditions with the intention of providing an air lift to safety.   Cloud continued to scupper first attempts at an approach but eventually the skilled crew brought the helicopter to a steady hover just west of Llyn y Cwn (appropriately named Lake of the Dog) and just metres away from the temporary bivouac site.  After being quickly winched aboard, strapped in and shrouded in foil blankets, the helicopter banked away to make a sortie to Oggie Base, the home of OVMRO at Bryn Poeth in Capel Curig, where a warm welcome and debrief was provided by other members of the team.  A cauldron of hot soup, a stack of toast and large cups of coffee provided much appreciated warmth and sustenance as the mountain rescue teams returned off the mountains to rendezvous back at base.

 

As you have probably now guessed, it was me who was one of the mountain hikers on that fateful day accompanied by Graham Palmer, my intrepid friend who deserves the highest praise for his patience when I slowed down and lost valuable time, his continual encouragement when the going got tough, his sacrificial love and care in an extreme mountain environment, his ability to dispel fears that we might not survive the night and his assertive decision-making and leadership at the point when it became inevitable that we were going to have to hunker down in such adverse conditions.

I hope that by telling our story, we can share some of the things we learned along the way and in so doing enhance the enjoyment and safety of other hill walkers whilst also giving recognition to the important emergency rescue teams whose passion for the mountains is evidenced by their professionalism and commitment to the service they provide for those of us unfortunate enough to find ourselves in need – to you we will always be indebted.

Our most grateful thanks go to everyone involved in our safe return down the mountain and we sincerely apologise if our actions inadvertently put anyone at risk that night.  There were many people involved and everyone played an invaluable part in safeguarding our health and well-being and allowing us an opportunity to tell our tale.  We wish we could thank you all by name but sadly we were not able to catch them all during the course of events!

Special thanks go to the following:                                

OVMRO – Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Organisation

 SARDA – Search And Rescue Dogs Association

22 SQUADRON, RAF VALLEY, ANGLESEY – Flight Lt Wales (HRH Prince William), co-pilot Kate, Chaz and a 4^th crew member (apologies for not catching your name)

NORTH WALES POLICE

Sally, Anne and Spin (OVMRO / SARDA) - for finding us and co-ordinating our safe exit

The other SAR teams deployed on the Glyderau

Pauline (OVMRO) - for supporting us back at Oggie Base and liaising with the police, mountain rescue teams and our emergency contact

Bob (OVMRO) – for providing a warm welcome at Oggie Base and giving us a lift back to our car after our eventful night

And finally…….

Our “worried friend” who prefers to remain nameless but deserves an accolade for raising the alarm – thank you again from the bottom of our hearts

LESSONS LEARNED:

EMERGENCY CONTACT

What we did – appraised an emergency contact of a departure time, location, brief details of route and expected time of return

What we could have done better – provided a more detailed itinerary/schedule and clear instructions as to what to do in an emergency together with details of clothing worn and kit carried (helpful for mountain rescue teams to assess survivability, skill levels and aid identification etc.)

WINTER KIT

What we did – sufficient clothing and footwear worn and additional clothing carried to survive the climate (including waterproofs, spare gloves and hats); carried an emergency bothy and survival bags, emergency lights, full first aid kit and all other relevant equipment for general mountain walking and surviving an emergency night out in the hills; a full change of clothing and footwear was also left in our car to be used as necessary on our return

What we could have done better – crampons and ice axes would have significantly reduced the delays in negotiating the icy slopes, provided much safer and securer footholds and minimised the risk of potentially serious falls; the ensuing weather conditions were not forecast and the extent of snow and ice on the summit ridge had not shown on mountain reports but full winter equipment would have been advisable at this time of year “just in case”

OVERNIGHTING

What we did – after finding the best sheltered site we immediately deployed the bothy and one of us used a survival bag; due to lack of space in the 2-man bothy the rucksacks were then positioned strategically outside to act as support and windbreaks after selecting necessary food, drinks and equipment to sustain us through the night

What we could have done better – a larger bothy would have allowed us to keep the rucksacks inside the shelter allowing us access to kit at all times and providing a slightly less cramped space; the use of 2 survival bags (i.e. one each) at the outset would have provided further insulation from the cold and protection from the damp created by the condensation inside the bothy

NAVIGATION & COMMUNICATION AIDS

What we did – carried an Expedition compass, Garmin GPS and 5 mobile phones on 3 networks, a laminated route map with additional laminated OS extracts, spare maps, hand held torches, a distress light and mountain whistles; continually reviewed our route and plan as the day/night progressed always ensuring we still had a contingency plan

What we could have done better – may consider investing in a satellite mobile phone or a PLB (Personal Locating Beacon), an emergency transmitting device which uses a frequency monitored for distress signals and enables a location to be precisely pinpointed in areas of poor/no mobile signal; full OS mapping on the Garmin GPS would have been extremely advantageous for increased reassurance and accuracy in route finding across the Glyder ridge in the atrocious weather conditions; we will also carry additional laminated map sections in a map case with copies in each rucksack in case of maps being lost, damaged or blown away in high winds; an earlier start time would have afforded additional daylight hours and directional LED head torches would have been preferable as the light started to fail towards the end of the day to illuminate the route

FOOD & DRINKS

What we did – carried a variety of isotonic drinks and high carb meals and snacks including a flask of hot coffee, jelly babies, Mars bars and chocolate raisins (excellent for rationing purposes), ensuring some were easily accessible on the outside of our packs; additional food and hot/cold drinks were also left in the car for our return (NB – we did not use camelbaks or similar as these would have been susceptible to freezing, thus rendering the contents undrinkable)

What we could have done better – an additional flask would have enabled more generous rationing of hot liquids overnight  

Mountain environments are unpredictable so careful planning and preparation is essential – it is impossible to be overprepared!

“It’s always further than it looks.
It’s always taller than it looks.
And it’s always harder than it looks.”
The 3 rules of mountaineering

“It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves.”
Edmund Hillary

“Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.”
Ed Viesturs (No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks)

“Take only pictures; leave only footprints.”
Anonymous

Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion...I go to them as humans go to worship. From their lofty summits I view my past, dream of the future and, with an unusual acuity, am allowed to experience the present moment...my vision cleared, my strength renewed. In the mountains I celebrate creation.
On each journey I am reborn.”
Anatoli Boukreev